Korea

Bodhidharma once said ‘‘The Buddha is the person who is free: free of plans, free of cares.’’. Having recently visited the Lotus Lantern International Meditation Centre on Ganghwa Island, I can think of no better place to provide an environment so in keeping with this Buddhist sentiment.
The reasons for my visit to this beautiful temple were borne through idle curiosity; English Buddhism is almost non-existent and as such my knowledge and exposure to what real, day to day Buddhist life actually meant was sadly lacking. The opportunity to spend two days living with Buddhist monks was a brilliant opportunity for me to gain greater insight into the practising religion. However, I found that interest in the Buddhist faith was but one of several varied reasons other people had to visit this beautiful location. The motives for visiting varied from a simple desire to escape the rigours of city life to the desire for an opportunity to give up smoking. This led to a brilliant mix of people at the site, providing great company during time off. What I must first of all stress is that during the stay there was absolutely no attempt at indoctrination; involvement in activities was not mandatory (although I would strongly recommend leaping at every opportunity) and information about aspects of Buddhism not encountered in the organised events was discovered informally, chatting to the monks. This is precisely why the Templestay programme is so appropriate to such a wide range of people; you can tailor the visit entirely to suit your own needs.
The essence of the temple atmosphere is caught as the sun rises following the early call to prayer. The last wisps of mist evaporate to reveal a stunning view over rice paddies, distant mountains lining the horizon. The quiet calm of the wooded hillside, only interrupted by the cool breeze rustling through the leaves, provides the perfect backdrop for calm meditation. All thoughts of city life melt away, replaced with complete serenity. Normally impervious to romanticism, even I regret that I had not visited earlier in the blossoming spring and had to leave Korea before the leaves turned autumn gold. Koreans frequently assert that these are the most beautiful times of year to visit the country, and there is no doubt in my mind that during these periods what is normally a beautiful temple is converted into a natural paradise.
Were this beautiful setting not enough, my friends and I were blown away by the hugely welcoming atmosphere at the retreat. The monks, fluent in English, were very approachable and more than happy to answer our questions on life at the temple. This unique experience provided real insight into what life in the Jogye order actually means, something that can’t be gleaned from books and reviews. Coming from backgrounds ranging from rural Korea to as far away as Russia, meeting these monks was an experience in itself. To hear their reasons for becoming monks, their views on that choice and also their insights into other Buddhist orders was riveting, providing a personal perspective on monkhood. The staff helper working at the temple was also brilliant, providing us with information and ready to help at all times. Working on a volunteer basis in exchange for food, accommodation, peace and tranquillity, her love of the area and lifestyle came across through her warmth and friendliness.
The temple itself is a far cry from the decadent, vaulted cathedrals of Europe. Backed by woodland with its entrance opening onto paddy fields, it is a small affair. As such it offers a tranquillity that perhaps larger, more popular temples cannot. The architecture and layout is stereotypical of temples across Korea; wide doors open to a view of a modest Buddha statue flanked by beautiful lotus flowers. The curved roof and colourfully tiled walls lend the temple towards its uniquely oriental design. Lay peoples prayer messages hang from the ceiling and candles burn in each corner, fragrant incense drifting over the scene. Rather than with European churches and cathedrals there is little breach between nature and temple, the wind blowing over prayer ceremonies through open doors. For me, this creates the feel that the temple is not merely the quaint building perched in the nook of the valley, rather the valley itself.
Every aspect of the stay was peaceful, none more so than the tea ceremony that we took part in. The absolute care taken by the monk in the pouring and straining of the loose green leaves heightened the anticipation for the delicious tea, a far cry from our manufactured English equivalent. The monks peaceful demeanour was infectious, leaving one and all at ease with the process. It was possible to drink outside under a small covered area; again our proximity to the tranquil surroundings further amplifying the calm atmosphere.
The beating of the wooden moktak signalled the call to each eagerly anticipated mealtime, and not once were we disappointed with the delicious food provided by the temple staff. The varied vegetarian temple food was quite simply delightful. From standard kimchi to pickled lotus flower roots and sweet nut dishes, there was always something for everyone to eat their fill. Fortunately during our stay we were able to partake in a ceremony venerating the ancestors of local Buddhists. The lay people’s homemade offerings that had lined the temple were subsequently carried down to the dining room and laid on groaning tables. The wait for the Abbott to begin his meal left stomachs rumbling as we eyed the delicious platters. Traditional ricecakes, watermelon, tofu, simmering soup and bowls of steaming rice alongside Korean style pancakes and vegetables were only a small part of what proved to be a sumptuous banquet. To take part in the occasion was an honour indeed.
The weekend Templestay programme itself provided huge amounts of opportunities. Early one morning saw us walking through the misty local countryside with one of the monks, occasionally stopping as he told us something of the area or to answer one of our questions on himself and Buddhism. We also took part in two meditation sessions at half an hour each. The absolute stillness of the meditating monks was almost impossible to recreate, but the experience was well worthwhile. One session took place late in the evening, the other in the early morning and as we sat in a square facing outwards there were no distractions bar the sounds of the surrounding countryside. The basic counting method (slowly counting to ten, then starting again) was absolutely absorbing if you tried properly. Frequently I found my mind wandering, highlighting just how hard true meditation is to achieve. A monk informed me of a sect of the Jogye order that meditated for 22 hours a day over a month, a truly terrifying prospect for those who struggled through these short sessions. Thankfully 22 hours of straight meditation is not, and will not, be a part of the Templestay programme!
On the Sunday we awoke very early to take part in morning prayers. The 109 prostrations proved a challenge before breakfast, but I could not face giving up before the old women beside me who seemingly didn’t even break into a sweat! Taking part was again not compulsory but I couldn’t recommend it enough. The lead Abbott’s melodious chanting was at the perfect pitch, washing over us in the early morning calm. To actively take part in this ceremony was again a huge honour and offered a perspective that can’t be gleaned from youtube videos or by merely watching from a distance.
We also tried our hand at some calligraphy, copying the phrase ‘Not to commit any bad things, to cultivate good and to purify one’s mind. This is the teaching of all the Buddhas’ in Korean, Japanese and English. Suffice to say this will have pride of place on my wall back home, a reminder of my time spent here.
Not having expected a five star resort and a weekend of pampering, accommodation was everything that I had anticipated. Simple and functional with a working shower and mattress and blankets to sleep on, nothing more was needed during our short stay. Indeed, very little time was spent there; the majority of the visit was spent with monks or around the temple.
I cannot recommend this experience enough, be it through idle curiosity, as a means of escape from the hustle and bustle of the city or as an opportunity to pray. Perhaps because it is smaller than some of the other temples further south, there is a brilliant, homely atmosphere at the temple. Many tourists visiting South Korea find it hard to leave Seoul; being the world’s second largest metropolis there are endless attractions, and some would argue there is no need to travel beyond its huge confines. However, to visit this beautiful Temple is situated in an area outside of Seoul was an unforgettable experience, enabling me to see more of the country. Furthermore, it is incredibly easy to reach. Taking one bus to the island and showing a taxi driver a leaflet of the temple was all that was required to arrive safely. Staff are happy to arrange taxis back to the bus station, but we were lucky enough to be offered lifts by kind Koreans visiting the temple to pray.
I arrived at the temple with trepidation, not being an overtly religious person. However, I will never look back on my time spent there and could not recommend it enough to anyone thinking about taking part in the future. Unforgettable. Beautiful. Utterly tranquil. The Lotus Lantern Temple will always be at the forefront of the memories I have of my time in Korea.